These terms are bandied about and no one actually knows what they are. Is there really gold or silver in your jewelry, flatware or hollow ware items? Are they worth anything? I can’t tell you how much plated, rolled gold or silver plate passes through my hands.

Gold Filled
A piece of jewelry or other object is layered with gold of the specified fineness and is electroplated over a base metal (copper or brass). You’ll always see a hallmark ( i.e. 1/20th 12kt GF) . The 1/20th stands for the gold total weight in the designated item. The GF stands for gold filled. Sometimes there’s an HGF which stands for heavy gold filled.

Rolled Gold
A sheet of very thin gold is fused to a thin sheet of base metal (usually brass) and formed into a piece. Rolled gold wire for chains has a base metal center with tube of gold around it and then pulled through a draw plate for a specified thickness. The gold plate can be seen from the edge or where there’s severe wear. Often, items will have 10 kt. RGP hallmarks or rolled gold plate.

I look for antique rolled gold jewelry items. My loupe is attached to a Victorian ladies 60” rolled rose gold watch chain. So many people make comments on how beautiful it is.

Gold Leaf
Gold’s extremely malleable and can be pounded extremely thin. One ounce of gold can be hammered into a sheet that measures more than 100 square feet (a football field) and only 5/1,000,000th of an inch thick. Gold leaf is about 1/200,000th to 1/250,000th of an inch thick and is primarily used for gilding things like a mirror.

Gold Electroplating
Electricity is used to produce the plating technique. The item(s) to be plated have an electrical current running through it and are suspended in liquid. An item of the karat gold has the opposite electrical current running through it. The item to be plated will draw particles from the gold, through the liquid, and coat the item with gold. Varying thickness can be achieved. Some watches hallmark 20 microns thick. That’s about the thickness of a strand of human hair.

Do note that if an item’s sterling with a gold electroplating or other plating method then it’s called vermeil or silver gilt. Lots of older costume jewelry’s vermeil. Don’t throw it out. It’s worth the silver that’s in it. If it’s vintage, has a signature, or some other way of being special then it can be worth more. You might have a little treasure that you didn’t know about.

Gold or Silver Plate
Usually a piece of jewelry will have a hallmark of GP which stands for gold plate and sometimes HGP or heavy gold plate will be hallmarked. Silver plate, as in flatware or hollow ware, will say silver plate or EP (extra plate). This process has a base metal (either copper or brass) that has the gold or silver mechanically or electrochemically applied to the item. Usually gold is 1/1,000th to 1/1,000,000th of an inch thick. It’s considerably thinner than the gold electroplating process and does NOT wear as well.

I love the old silver plate and the plating’s heavy, very heavy. Please refer to my previous article for silver plate. The new plate wears off quickly. You can find the old stuff at estate and antique dealers, flea markets or through garage sales. These are truly finds. I just bought a set of 10 bone handled silver plate fish knives. They were black and it took elbow grease to make a spectacular Easter gift to my sister. She loved them!

Value
Valuable or not? Vermeil has silver value, not any gold value. If there’s a signature (i.e. Tiffany, Cartier, etc.), period piece (Victorian, Art Deco, etc.), or something unusual…….well…maybe. It just depends. Send a photo and I’ll tell you. Or, take it to your local antique and estate dealer. They might charge for the valuation. Value’s really what it’s worth to you. As far as refining it goes, that’s up for debate. Some people do refine all the fills and plates and some don’t.

You can search for the information on your own. No one puts it all in a nice neat package for you to see it all in one place. Now you know. Take a look, a close look, at what you have. You might not have a treasure and then again, you might!

february-09-041wordpressOrganics? What are Organics you ask? This an all encompassing jewelry trade term that you may or may not heard of. Organics are anything that is not a rock or a stone. The following are examples of organics: coral, shell, pearls, ivory, conch pearls, paper (historic documents), animal furs or claws. In-Organics would be diamonds, platinum, gold, sterling, coins,  etc.

Why put items in safe deposit boxes? The obvious answer is to keep them safe. But there are things that should NOT stay in a safe deposit box for extended periods of time. The air is VERY dry and will pull the moisture out of any organic and a few in-organics items. Years in safe deposit boxes have absolutely ruined items that people have put in front of me to purchase from them. It has put me in the difficult position to explain that Aunt Bessie’s favorite large Victorian period shell cameo is only worth the value of the gold frame because the once beautiful cameo is crazed and has a crack giving Aphrodite a part that the carver did not intend. It is a shame to see some of the beautiful pieces that have been destroyed because of their spending a lifetime in the local bank. The Dead Sea Scrolls befell the same circumstances because of their safe deposit storage.  A beautiful large opal in a fabulous Art Nouveau necklace will craze beyond belief if it were kept in a safe deposit box for a long time.

What not to put into a safe deposit box? Organics, papers (historic in nature), leathers, Opals, fabrics, watches and clocks are items that should not go into a safe deposit box. You CAN put them into the bank if you are going away for a trip and will return in a couple of weeks. There is no issue there. Just bring them home when you can after you get back and they can acclimate to your home again. These items need the moisture that is in your home.

With these simple little rules, you can keep your treasured jewelry beautiful for generations to come.

february-09-041wordpressThis is another attention calling moment for you to purchase because there are fantastic deals on pearls.  I keep saying this’s a good deal, that’s a good deal.  It seems I am almost chanting a mantra.  Well, simply, there are some really good deals out there that people just don’t know about. If you have a little bit of cash in your hand, you can get a steal!….legally that is.

 

I was just in Hong Kong.  Fabulous trip and I would recommend it to anyone.  The locals were generous, kind, engaging and helpful.  There were several markets to go to.  Some markets were ok, some not and then there was the Jade Market.  It was jade heaven on earth.  But what does the Jade Market have to do with pearls?  Well, lots.  There were lots and lots and lots of pearls.

 

Pearls have been steadily going down, down, down.  I don’t even buy them when I am out on the road for a buy show, except for myself.  Pearls don’t re-sell well unless they’re South Sea or very large fine pearls.  To give you two examples, I bought one strand of very large coin pearls for $100 Hong Kong Dollars.  That translates to $12.99 U.S.!  The second necklace was a triple strand of coin pearls about the size of a nickel also for $100 Hong Kong Dollars.  Again $12.99 U.S.!  I can remember looking for similar pearls in the mid ‘80’s and they were going for OVER $1000.00 U.S. wholesale for unstrung 16” strands.

 

How do you get this price in the U.S.?  Well there are ways to do it.  Go to bead shops, estate dealers, and on line.  Don’t be put off if you don’t like the clasp.  It can always be changed and re-strung.  It’s the necklace that’s the deal.  I’ve even been able to purchase pearls at retail outlets that are cheaper than I can buy from a wholesaler!

 

When looking for pearls, look for a thickness in nacre (the covering of the pearl) and as blemish free as possible.  There are varying shapes, sizes, blemish categories and configurations of pearls.  Sometimes the blemishing makes the strand wholly unique.  I have bought strands for the very reason of their texture.  But what hasn’t been sacrificed is the thickness of the nacre.

 

Let me speak to that fact for a moment.  All pearls out on the market are cultured.  Meaning:  there is a nucleus (bead) that the oyster, mussel or clam secrets the nacre around.  If there is no nucleus, the pearl is considered a natural or oriental pearl and the price is driven up considerably by that fact.  Some pearls are only left in the shell for a very short period and you can see the underlying striations of the nucleus bead.  These are just ugly.  The longer the pearl is left in the shell, the thicker the nacre gets.

 

The next item to look for in a good pearl is luster.  It’s the shine or sheen that the pearl has.  Does it look dull like an emery board or flat milky in spots?  Ideally, you want pearls that look like a shiny ball bearing.  More often than not, you can find pearls that aren’t quite shiny but are close. 

 

There is nothing like the cool klink, klink, klink of a strand of pearls that runs through your fingers.  And there is very little that is lovelier than pearls on a woman’s skin.  Pearls make a woman’s skin glow like no other gem.  Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend but pearls are for every girl, are must in every wardrobe, and are in every girl’s budget……especially now!

Jessica recommends in Hong Kong:

 

Green Leaf Gift Shop (Jade)

 Contact:  Agnes Leung

Store No 10, 34 & 36 Kansu Street

Yau Ma Tei Jade Market

Kowloon, Hong Kong

Email:  agnes6@gmail.com

 

Jade – Wholesale & Retail

Contact:  Angus Lam

Store No. 19, Kansu Street

Yau Ma Tei Jade Market

Kowloon, Hong Kong

Email:  seattle_angus@yahoo.com

february-09-041wordpressMy last blog title was “Diamonds are Down in Price……EVEN FURTHER! but diamond prices are at a record low now.  It’s now making headline news on TV.  When was the last time anyone has heard of DeBeers closing a mine….let alone 2?!  This just happens to be a first.  There is a huge glut of diamonds in the world wide market.  If you ever wondered if we are in a global economy, this is your supreme example of it and wonder no more. 

 

DeBeers is a boy big and can afford to take the hit.  The unfortunate situation is that the employees of DeBeers, cutters, site holders, diamond dealers, finished wholesale goods, and your local Mom and Pop and estate dealers are hit the hardest.  The ripple effect is gigantic and it affects everyone everywhere down to the local people in your community like the waitress that is waiting tables for tips.  

 

How does this help you as a retail customer?  It is the BEST, I repeat, the BEST time to buy a diamond.  Some diamonds are reported to be up to 60% off of the Rapaport Diamond Report list price.  Imagine getting 60% off of the Kelly Blue Book for that favorite recent loaded model of a boss Mustang.  You’d think seriously about buying that wouldn’t you?  It all adds up to an extremely profitable situation for the retail consumer.  When was the last time the retail consumer got such a deal in the diamond industry?  Never!  BUY, BUY, BUY is all I can say.  And hurry up cause it’s not going to last!

 

My first word of caution has always and will always be not to sacrifice color, clarity, make, proportions, fluorescence and thickness of girdle just for carat size.  You have to have it all.  Otherwise, it’s just a bad buy.  A sizeable bad buy now will be forever a bad buy.  Diamonds are not an investment.  But in this market you might just be able to make a truly lucky score.

 

Go for the diamond shapes that are NOT in style.  You really can get a sizeable piece of ice for your finger, neck, ears or where ever you want to put it. The shapes least favored are Marquise, Heart, Pear, Emerald and then comes all the funky recent fancy cuts like Tycoons and Hearts and Arrows.  Stay with the traditional cuts and you will be safer.  

 

If your local jeweler or estate dealer has a diamond in for you in memo (short for memorandum – on loan) then the price is usually set.  Know that you can always ask for a discount and the jeweler may go back to the diamond dealer to get a bit of a discount.  Everyone is asking for discounts now.  It never hurts and all that they can say is no.  They may not have any wiggle room on the price.  A little bit of something to a jeweler is better than a whole lot of nothing.  If it was a diamond that was able to be purchased straight out from a private then there may be some real room to negotiate.  The jeweler may tell you straight out or they may not.

 

Put your shopping hat on, get out there, and go buy a diamond.  It’s a fantastic time to buy for the retail consumer.  And believe it or not your buy will eke it’s way into the economy and help everyone out.  After all, you, the consumer, are the humble beginnings of the world wide global economy.  So start the ripple effect, do a good deed, and get your self a bonus of a big honker diamond!

 

PS I am leaving for Hong Kong early in the a.m.  I will be writing about the pearl market.  Pearls are another great deal right now.  Next blog, you will know how to buy pearls for deep discounts.  Pearls are for any and EVERY girl.

february-09-041wordpressDo you want a diamond?  Have you ever wished you could have an upgrade big honker on that all important third finger of the left hand?   Are you in the market to buy your engagement ring?  Well, let me tell you there are some DEALS out there!  Buy it NOW!!

I was in Ft. Worth on a buy last week and because diamonds are not being sold, the prices for diamonds are continuing to fall.  The prices are falling steeply.  Why you ask?  Well, is it more important to have gas in your car, groceries, pay a mortgage or those things?  These are the issues that are near and dear to most people at the moment.  Diamonds are not a necessity therefore they are not selling.  If they are not selling then the price has to go down from the sellers.

As I asked earlier, do you want a big honker diamond?  Well take into consideration the cuts that are not “in fashion” or “in style”.  All cuts go through there highs and lows of demands.  Cuts that are “in style” right at this moment are rounds and princess cuts.  The worst and most out of style are the heart shape and the marquise shape.  Think along those lines.  Start YOUR own trend.  These are deeply discounted.

Heart shaped is difficult to move and really doesn’t look quite right on the hand. Does the heart face you or away from you is a normal question?  It makes the best statement as a pendant.  They can be lovely and very sweetly feminine pendants.  Make sure that it has the correct outline of a heart shape.  You will know it when you look at it upside down or table down.  Does it look symmetrical?  Or fat and stubby?  Or thin like a contact lense?

Marquise can be bought for such good deals.  Simply no one wants them.  If you have to have what’s “in style”, then by all means do it.  But if you want to go for SIZE on the hand, then marquise is THE way to go.  They were very, very popular in the 90’s and everything that is popular only has a short life span.  It will be saturated in the market places to the point that everyone will have one and then the popularity quickly goes down the steeply.  You can profit in this by choosing a diamond shape that is unpopular.

Think about size this way.  Would you like to have a 1.00ct princess cut with a premium price or would you rather have a double-ish the sized marquise cut diamond with a discounted price?  This is with similar colors, clarities, etc.  This can possibly be a very do-able situation.  My money would be on the marquise if the choice was to go for size.   You will have to hunt for your deals.  An estate dealer that buys from the public will give you the best deals.  

Do know, you’ve got to find a well cut marquise.  It will look similar to a football shape.  Here again, do your homework.  Have a dealer or your gemologist show you what a well made marquise cut diamond looks like.  Make sure you look at it loose.  Place the diamond upside down on the table or flat side.  This is the easiest way to look at a marquise for a lay person.  Not short and stout, not long and narrow, not thin or thick in depth but you want a shape similar to a football.  Once you’ve seen one you will understand what I am saying.

This is information that public just doesn’t have access to and you now do.  Choose the best color, clarity, make and proportions, little fluorescence.   If you can afford to go buy a diamond now, go buy it now.  Don’t delay.  There are deals to be had. 

P.S. I am in Frisco Hilton Garden Inn on Gaylord at a buy show.  Come see me.

february-09-041wordpressCBS morning aired a story on Gold Parties and there are some things to consider about them that the story didn’t cover.  It was enough for me to post a comment.  Please see the attached link to make your own assessments after you read my comment.  It will enlighten you and give you the information you need to ask questions about if a gold party is going to give you the cash you want or not.   

The comment was posted 12:27 PM : Mar 25, 2009.  The comment is listed in whole below.

As a Graduate Gemologist in the jewelry industry for 25 years, I would be cautious about gold parties. I have heard about good ones and more often than not the bad ones. Bounced checks, not enough returns for the amount of gold brought and problematic security issues are just a few most notable problems.

There are great reasons to have gold parties. It can be a good and a fun business transaction. It is found money that everyone needs right now in this economy. Quite often, when business is conducted correctly, an individual can get more cash in hand than when you go to other dealers or jewelers. More often the greed factor is a strong motivator to make more per ounce, gram or pennyweight than what is ethical. Before you attend a gold party, make sure of the following: you trust the individual throwing it, that it is a safe and secure place for you to go, cash is the order of the day and the buyer is very knowledgeable about the subject matter.

It is not unusual to have a piece of gold that crosses my hands that is worth MORE than just the gold value. I am a Graduate Gemologist with particular training in the estate, antique, signature and period pieces of jewelry. In the past, it has been my place to give information about the item(s) to the perspective seller and specifically ask if the individual was sure they wanted to sell it. I guarantee that the unsuspecting gold buyer will send the item(s) to their home office. The home office will inspect each piece and is expecting that their buyers will be making a lucky buy to garner them more money. This is not right and is one of the HUGE pitfalls of a gold party. There are good buyers and bad buyers out there. Sellers beware! Do your due diligence when selling your hidden treasures from your jewelry box. Jessica Kendrick, G.G.

http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/03/24/eveningnews/main4890550.shtml?source=search_story

 

PS  I am in Fossil Creek Courtyard Marriott in Ft. Worth buying for the week of  3/30 to 4/4.  Come see me!

february-09-041wordpressI work for a company that sends me out on buying trips and currently, am in Amarillo, TX at the Ambassador Hotel buying….. everything!  Everything equates to: gold, silver, coins, diamonds, scrap, flatware, and certain collectibles. It is a great company to work for. The prices paid are fair to the individual and people leave happy with cash in their hands! I will be in Amarillo until Saturday evening when the show closes.

 

What to bring? Bring everything that you think you would like to sell, even if you don’t know what it is or anything about it. I can tell you what it is or what it isn’t. I have over 25+ years in the business buying, with a substantial amount of time on the road doing just this. There is no charge to do this. It is easy, comfortable to do, fun, safe and in no way are you pressured to sell. There is always “found” money in old jewelry boxes that you don’t know that you have.

How it works. Bring your item(s) in. They are identified and then priced. The better the piece you have, the better the price you will receive. You will have fun identifying what you have. You will be shown the procedures of how to identify different karats of gold and silver. This is not normally shown to people selling their merchandise. You will be shown the inclusions in your diamonds so that you can better understand the grades. You will have the power of information that you didn’t have when you came through the doors.

Once a price is agreed upon, your information is taken, and then you will receive a cash payment. You must supply a driver’s license or other valid identification in order to receive payment. Then you are done. I have had numerous people come back numerous times. We have had fun transacting business. Just think, when was the last time you had fun in a business transaction?

So bring in your items for sale. It’s your own personal treasure hunt! If I am not available, there are others who are knowledgeable, ready, willing and happy to help you.

P.S.  I will be in Ft. Worth at the Fossil Creek Courtyard Monday 3/30 to Saturday 4/4.  Come see me.

 


Others to recommend besides me:
 

For sales and purchases of your fine and antique silver

 

Beverly Bremer Silver Shop

3134 Peachtree Road

Atlanta, GA  30305

800-270-4009

404-261-4009

http://www.beverlybremer.com

 

For sales and purchases of your fine and antique jewelry, diamonds, watches, scrap, etc.

 

Elena Acquadro

579 5th Ave., Suite 3414

New York, NY  10017

917-670-9386

Email:  elena2000nyc@yahoo.com

 

The Estate Jewelry Center

Joel Conte

367 Highland Ave

Augusta, GA  30909

706-364-4111

Email:  tejc@knology.net

 

A. Tiffaney & Son

Kirk Weisman

Northern Trust Bldg.

1515 Ringling Blvd., Suite 990

Sarasota, FL  34236

941-366-1014

http://www.webuyyourjewelry.com

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer:  This is an opinion of a Graduate Gemologist.  Use your best judgment.  It is your responsibility of due diligence for your purchase(s) and/or sales.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 february-09-041wordpressRight now we have a volatile financial market.  Should we hide money in the mattress like our grandparents and great grandparents did?  Is there going to be a run on the banks with so many failing?  You can’t put your money in stocks or gold either.  But now is the BEST time to invest in large diamonds – especially large stones from 1.5 carats and up. 

 

 

Have you heard of the story about a gentleman during the Great Depression that hocked everything that he owned to buy land and came out a very, very rich man once it was over?  We are close to the same position as the Great Depression. 

 

In recent times when the stock market dropped down to dangerous levels, everyone who had money invested in large diamonds instead of the stock market.   Now, no one is investing in diamonds.  Currently, the diamond market is dropping.  Rapaport Diamond Sheet, the “Kelly Blue Book” and jewelry industry pricing guide for diamonds, has dropped prices on diamonds because no one is buying larger diamonds in the current recessionary market. 

 

 

Buy Diamonds here. There are several places to go to buy a diamond.  Your best deals are going to be the ones that you have to work for.  Do your homework, shop, compare and do your homework again.  Look online too.  Blue Nile.com and Amazon.com have good online reputations.  Estate and second hand dealers are going to give the best prices.  They usually sell their merchandise quicker.  Therefore, the savings can be greater. 

 

Certified is best. If you can, get a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certified diamond.   Do know that you will pay a bit more for a GIA certified diamond but the information contained in current certificates is rarely disputed.  Or, have a reliable GIA Graduate Gemologist and/or jewelry professional that you trust in your corner to counsel you about your purchase and make sure the certificate or other information you have received are one and the same.  If the diamond does not correlate exactly to the certificate or the information given to you from the Seller, make sure that you can return the diamond.  Be careful and check the return policy before you plunk down your hard earned cash. 

 

  A jewelry professional that is not employed by the Seller is your safety net.  Gemological services come with a price and possibly less of a price for verbal services.  

 

Shape is an important factor.  Round is the best shape to purchase as it always trades well. Currently, Princess cuts are in fashion.  Marquis and heart shaped cuts are trading with deep discounts.  Know that all fancy shapes go through trends with the exception of round.  Round is the shape that is always in fashion.  The Rapaport Diamond Report devotes a pricing sheet specifically to round diamonds. 

 

What size to buy? Buy a minimum of a 1.00ct.  2.00cts. is better.  Bigger is better.  But do not sacrifice color, clarity, make, proportions and fluorescence just to get a big diamond.  As an example, you would be best to buy a 1.00ct., G color, VS2 clarity, Good make and proportions with faint blue fluorescence rather than buy a 2.50ct., K color, I1 clarity, poor make and proportions and strong yellow fluorescence.  Go smaller and keep all of the best colors, clarities, makes, proportions and fluorescence that you can.  Just don’t go under 1.00ct.  When you buy the best, it will provide you the best cash in hand later.  

 

Tempus fugit.  Know this market is fleeting and the sale won’t be a quick flip.  If I had a crystal ball to tell you when market would end and when for you to sell, I would be a very rich woman.  But just like anything else, it’s timing and NOW is the time!  Buy and buy big! 

 

 

Disclaimer:  This is an opinion of a Graduate Gemologist.  Use your best judgment.  It is your responsibility of due diligence for your purchase and/or purchases.

 

 

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