These terms are bandied about and no one actually knows what they are. Is there really gold or silver in your jewelry, flatware or hollow ware items? Are they worth anything? I can’t tell you how much plated, rolled gold or silver plate passes through my hands.

Gold Filled
A piece of jewelry or other object is layered with gold of the specified fineness and is electroplated over a base metal (copper or brass). You’ll always see a hallmark ( i.e. 1/20th 12kt GF) . The 1/20th stands for the gold total weight in the designated item. The GF stands for gold filled. Sometimes there’s an HGF which stands for heavy gold filled.

Rolled Gold
A sheet of very thin gold is fused to a thin sheet of base metal (usually brass) and formed into a piece. Rolled gold wire for chains has a base metal center with tube of gold around it and then pulled through a draw plate for a specified thickness. The gold plate can be seen from the edge or where there’s severe wear. Often, items will have 10 kt. RGP hallmarks or rolled gold plate.

I look for antique rolled gold jewelry items. My loupe is attached to a Victorian ladies 60” rolled rose gold watch chain. So many people make comments on how beautiful it is.

Gold Leaf
Gold’s extremely malleable and can be pounded extremely thin. One ounce of gold can be hammered into a sheet that measures more than 100 square feet (a football field) and only 5/1,000,000th of an inch thick. Gold leaf is about 1/200,000th to 1/250,000th of an inch thick and is primarily used for gilding things like a mirror.

Gold Electroplating
Electricity is used to produce the plating technique. The item(s) to be plated have an electrical current running through it and are suspended in liquid. An item of the karat gold has the opposite electrical current running through it. The item to be plated will draw particles from the gold, through the liquid, and coat the item with gold. Varying thickness can be achieved. Some watches hallmark 20 microns thick. That’s about the thickness of a strand of human hair.

Do note that if an item’s sterling with a gold electroplating or other plating method then it’s called vermeil or silver gilt. Lots of older costume jewelry’s vermeil. Don’t throw it out. It’s worth the silver that’s in it. If it’s vintage, has a signature, or some other way of being special then it can be worth more. You might have a little treasure that you didn’t know about.

Gold or Silver Plate
Usually a piece of jewelry will have a hallmark of GP which stands for gold plate and sometimes HGP or heavy gold plate will be hallmarked. Silver plate, as in flatware or hollow ware, will say silver plate or EP (extra plate). This process has a base metal (either copper or brass) that has the gold or silver mechanically or electrochemically applied to the item. Usually gold is 1/1,000th to 1/1,000,000th of an inch thick. It’s considerably thinner than the gold electroplating process and does NOT wear as well.

I love the old silver plate and the plating’s heavy, very heavy. Please refer to my previous article for silver plate. The new plate wears off quickly. You can find the old stuff at estate and antique dealers, flea markets or through garage sales. These are truly finds. I just bought a set of 10 bone handled silver plate fish knives. They were black and it took elbow grease to make a spectacular Easter gift to my sister. She loved them!

Value
Valuable or not? Vermeil has silver value, not any gold value. If there’s a signature (i.e. Tiffany, Cartier, etc.), period piece (Victorian, Art Deco, etc.), or something unusual…….well…maybe. It just depends. Send a photo and I’ll tell you. Or, take it to your local antique and estate dealer. They might charge for the valuation. Value’s really what it’s worth to you. As far as refining it goes, that’s up for debate. Some people do refine all the fills and plates and some don’t.

You can search for the information on your own. No one puts it all in a nice neat package for you to see it all in one place. Now you know. Take a look, a close look, at what you have. You might not have a treasure and then again, you might!

 

O cameo, O cameo, where for art thou cameo? There was a time when all I ever saw was cameos. Now I rarely see them and what has been presented, well, the ladies just aren’t very pretty. Granted beauty is in the eye of the beholder but once explained, you too will be looking at a cameo with a different eye.

What is a cameo exactly?
The brown and white cameos of the Helmut shell are what most people think of first. The upper portion or raised portion is usually white and the bottom or background portion is brown. A cameo is always raised in the carving fashion. If the central figure is lower than the background, it’s not a cameo. It’s an intaglio (pronounced IN- tal-leo) and it’s another subject altogether.

Material
A cameo can be made from any material. Soft materials easily lend themselves to the artists’ talents. Materials such as shell, coral, mother of pearl, amber, or lava have been popular. Other materials often used were banded agate, chalcedony, onyx, labradorite, moonstone, malachite to name only a very few. The harder the material to be carved, the finer details the carver can achieve. Gutta Percha is a mixture of rubber and sulfur used in the Victorian era for cameos. It was cheap, easily carved and could be molded into a shape for mass production. The sulfur emits a rotten egg odor when worn next to the skin and isn’t a pleasant odor for any woman in my book….ewh!

Carving
Look at it closely. Is it fine, detailed, or jagged? Is it hand carved or laser carved? Let’s use a Greek Goddess as an example. Are her chin and nose pointy or do they softly round? Are the curls in her hair jagged or are they round like a curl should be. In other words, how close to a normal appearance of woman does it look? If it’s a laser carving, it falls into a different category and I only pay for the setting.

Subject Matter
What is the subject matter? Is it a Greek or Roman God or Goddess’s likeness, or a Flapper? Is it a battle scene, Angels, flora or fauna? Is it a carving of a famous Royal for a family member? The subject matter is an important point that greatly influences the value of a cameo.

Period
Is it new or modern? Is it Art Deco (ca.1920-1935), Edwardian (ca.1900-1919), Victorian (ca. 1837-1900)? Victorians loved cameos and many cameos were carved then. Italy was the center for carving. If it was an exceptional cameo the artist signed it and some artists signatures are very valuable.

What is the cameo set in?
Is it in a bezel for a pin/pendant, a ring, a pair of earrings, a bracelet, a box, or a dish? Are there stones in the bezel or on the cameo itself? Is it in gold, silver, 800 silver, filigree bezel, or a mixture of silver and gold to name a few possibilities? Just because it’s a cameo doesn’t mean that it has to be a piece of jewelry. The fancier the holder or if it’s a piece from a famous jeweler or carver the more valuable it will be. Rings, pendants, and earrings are more popular than pins and brooches are.

What makes a cameo valuable?
That’s a many sided question. First thing that I look at is the condition, condition, and condition. Has a shell cameo been stored in a safe deposit box, allowed to dry out, and left with cracks? Have any of the high points like a nose or chin knocked off? Or is it barely recognizable as a cameo due to wear? Poor condition gets low prices. Then next for valuation is the bezel, the material, subject, where it was manufactured, is it a piece of jewelry or other item, is it an unusual item, and the age or period. This is just a few of the things that I look for when valuing a piece.

In our current market cameos are not popular. This provides you the golden opportunity to snap up a good buy. Check out the antique and estate dealers and even garage sales. Antique and estate dealers are happy to show you various kinds of cameos. Cameos are a beautiful sight to behold when they are well executed and nothing is more feminine. Everyone needs a cameo “something” or “somethings” in their jewelry wardrobe.

Our economy has had some serious ups and downs. It’s also reflected within the jewelry industry too and disastrously so. Pearls are still down. Gold’s see-sawing daily but for the most part staying in a range. Diamonds are in their own league by themselves. What’s going on? The experts don’t really know either. I’m certainly not an expert.

What I can tell you is that diamonds, certain cuts, seem to have stabilized. Rounds and Princess cuts are still hot and lead the pack in desirability and price. Pear shape, Marquise, and Heart shapes are still the bottom of the desirability scale. This’s still the deal for you and I would still recommend buying one of those shapes. The primo or good stones of any shape will always sell no matter what. The middle of the road clarity and color and the not so nice stuff just is not selling. That’s where the mass majority of the retail public is. The majority isn’t buying at the moment and hasn’t for about the past year and half.

Gold prices are up, they’re down, they’re up and then they’re about the same. The prices seem to be hovering around the $1100.00 +/-. People are still selling. There’s still a wide variety of people selling too. The reasons for selling range from a little extra cash to acts of desperation trying to pay a mortgage, medical expense, or a utility. Some people selling have been bank executives that have lost everything, a young couple trying to make ends meet, or an older couple selling for medical reasons to name a very few.

As high as gold prices are, the silver prices seem attainable for the average consumer. It’s much, much less expensive. The only thing that makes silver expensive is the labor to make it into a desirable piece of jewelry. Just like putting a thermostat in your car that costs about $10-$15, the labor to put the thermostat in will be around $100. The same thing holds true here.  Silver’s cheap but the labor to work it isn’t.

Pearls are just down, down, down, and down some more. Perhaps the flood of all the cultured freshwaters has been a contributing factor. Who knows though? But pearls remain something that I simply can’t buy cheap enough. There just aren’t any buyers for them. But on the upside, if you as an individual needs, wants, has to have a strand or something pearl, now’s THE time to buy and score a deal for yourself or a loved one.

During World War II the period of Retro jewelry was “it”. Those who were anyone were wearing very large, very chunky, bold jewelry. Times were very difficult then and the jewelry made a statement. The jewels that were mostly used were large inexpensive single stones with an accent of diamonds and other smaller stones. The styles were asymmetrical and architectural in feel. Big shoulder pads were in style for the ladies. Well we’re in a similar style mode and similar difficulty economically too. Shoulder pads for ladies are coming back and large, chunky, bold jewelry is in style. See the similarity here.

Costume is was hot in the ‘40’s and it’s hot again. Even good jewelers now are bringing in good costume lines in order to just get traffic into their stores. The trends follow the Lipstick Theory. The theory is that a woman may not be able to afford shopping excursions for clothing but to augment the wardrobe a woman will go buy a lipstick. A lipstick is by far cheaper than going to purchase clothing. It is a closely watched trend. The prohibitive price of gold is what’s driving the costume trend. Older good costume jewelry was quite often made from sterling. I buy quite a bit of it and tell people that if they have costume to bring it in. It’s always a pleasure to find vintage sterling costume jewelry and tell people they will have more cash in their hand because of it. Check out your Grandmother’s and Mother’s jewelry box for a few chic and trendy items for yourself.

What’s in, what’s out, what’s up, what’s down is ultimately an individual’s expression from their purchasing power as a group. Estate and Antique dealers are still going to be the best bet to find the best deals because of negotiations abilities not available to major chain stores. So, if there’s a little bit of bling that’s a necessary item from your future, you know where and what to look for.

In my travels, there is so much silver plate that runs through my hands. Some of it’s dreadfully black with tarnish, some has been kept beautifully, and some is in terrible condition. It is unloved and not well thought of. Of which, I find quite surprising, in spite tarnish. Gladly, I’ll take it off of someone’s hands. The newer silver plate is not heavy and the plate doesn’t wear well. I pass on that stuff. The old silver plate is just wonderful with the patina of age and I quickly buy it when it comes in. It’s cleaned up, polished brightly, and then put into my silverware drawer for everyday use.

Have to tell a story here. My mother decided she liked the silver plate in my silverware drawer and asked me to be on the look out for serving pieces. Well, a bee-u-tee-ful cake/pie server came in just before Christmas. It cost hardly anything and was the deal of the day for me. It was very ornate and had a shape similar to a trowel. It’s just perfect to serve with. It was shown to my sister for approval and she looked very longingly at it. Now she wants some of the silver plate and my mother loved, loved the cake/pie server.

The thing about the older silver plate servers is that they are unique, have specific uses, show true craftsmanship, and mix wonderfully with a table set with sterling. Sterling servers can sometimes be a bit pricey on their own. But the alternative of silver plate is practical in price.

Taking care of it is easy. If it doesn’t have a hollow handle, you can put it in the dishwasher. I don’t know about you, but easy is good. The dishwasher cleans it wonderfully. Just put in ½ of the dishwasher detergent unless you are using NEU dish soap. That is THE best dishwasher detergent…..BAR NONE. The other NEU products are just as wonderful. It’s safe for sterling too. Just put a few pieces in the dishwasher basket. Here again, no hollow handles. When finished, put it in a Ziploc bag with all of the air out of it and it will stay polished if you use it for special occasions. Otherwise, just use it and that will keep the polish.

When you get your new-to-you silver plate, polish ONLY with paste polishes. Never, ever use silver dip. It will absolutely ruin the silver plate or sterling and the patina. The patina develops over time. Patina gives silver plate and sterling a glow that can only be achieved through time. The large auction houses only use paste polish. If the auction houses use paste, then I’d be strongly inclined to use paste too…..and I do. I am a sister of the black hand…..the color that your hands get from polishing silver with paste polish.

Old silver plate is ornate. You will find that the back of each piece is decorated, not just the front. Victorian pieces are highly ornate on the back. It’s hard not to appreciate even a lowly little pickle fork that is as beautiful on the back as it is on the front. There is one in my drawer that dates to 1880’s with sweet little Forget-me-nots on the front. The reverse side has the same but what would be the backside of the flowers and leaves. It is just darling.

Now to set your table: Mix everything. There is something to be said for everything that matches on a table. AND, there’s a lot to be said for mixing everything on the table. Last Thanksgiving, I was given the table to set at my sister’s house. I mixed everything all together. Sterling, silver plate, mother of pearl handled flatware, crystal and plain glass were all on the table. My sister was in the kitchen with the pecan pie while I finished the table. It was perfectly lovely. I had brought my servers and other flatware from home. Previous to that moment she wasn’t quite convinced about silver plate until she saw it all out on the table. She was amazed and you will be too.

There were different kinds of servers that were originally intended for very specific uses. Not any more. At Thanksgiving they went to other jobs instead. The thing to remember: There are NO rules about how you use your servers. They can be re-tasked. I use a silver plate bullion spoon for my everyday tea scoop. It’s just the perfect amount for a pot of tea.

You can’t exactly come out on a buy with me to get these lovelies. What you can do is hit your local garage sales, check your grandmother’s silver drawer, or look in antique shops. People just don’t want to polish and you can pick up some deals for little cash. Sometimes you can even hit a jackpot and pick up a sterling item. While looking for that piece, make sure there is no copper or brass shining through. There should not be excessive use either. Look for the items that are in very good condition. Don’t get scared away by tarnish either. You can polish it back to beauty.

Now you, too, know the secret of a beautiful table that’s not going to cost an arm and a leg. A table set with polished silver or silver plate is a sight to behold for a special occasion as well as every day use. The fancy serving pieces will always get comments from a guest. You can just smile and let someone think that it’s sterling that you use for everyday. Besides the nice thing about silver plate is, if it wears out, you can just throw it away without any guilt. Happy hunting!

february-09-041wordpressOrganics? What are Organics you ask? This an all encompassing jewelry trade term that you may or may not heard of. Organics are anything that is not a rock or a stone. The following are examples of organics: coral, shell, pearls, ivory, conch pearls, paper (historic documents), animal furs or claws. In-Organics would be diamonds, platinum, gold, sterling, coins,  etc.

Why put items in safe deposit boxes? The obvious answer is to keep them safe. But there are things that should NOT stay in a safe deposit box for extended periods of time. The air is VERY dry and will pull the moisture out of any organic and a few in-organics items. Years in safe deposit boxes have absolutely ruined items that people have put in front of me to purchase from them. It has put me in the difficult position to explain that Aunt Bessie’s favorite large Victorian period shell cameo is only worth the value of the gold frame because the once beautiful cameo is crazed and has a crack giving Aphrodite a part that the carver did not intend. It is a shame to see some of the beautiful pieces that have been destroyed because of their spending a lifetime in the local bank. The Dead Sea Scrolls befell the same circumstances because of their safe deposit storage.  A beautiful large opal in a fabulous Art Nouveau necklace will craze beyond belief if it were kept in a safe deposit box for a long time.

What not to put into a safe deposit box? Organics, papers (historic in nature), leathers, Opals, fabrics, watches and clocks are items that should not go into a safe deposit box. You CAN put them into the bank if you are going away for a trip and will return in a couple of weeks. There is no issue there. Just bring them home when you can after you get back and they can acclimate to your home again. These items need the moisture that is in your home.

With these simple little rules, you can keep your treasured jewelry beautiful for generations to come.

february-09-041wordpressWe’ve all felt the pinch of everything in our economy from housing, gas, groceries, loss of jobs to mention a few. The jewelry industry has been hit exceptionally HARD. It’s been a question of do you want to pay for a mortgage, car payment, trade-in your car for cash for clunkers program or buy a piece of jewelry? Let’s see?….hmm…bet it’s not the jewelry that high on the list!

My sympathies, empathies and heart are with those who have lost their jobs. My hope for those out of a job is that things will be better with a new position that pays well and has benefits in short order. I was out of work for over 3 months due to a well known individual that embezzled billions of dollars. The ripple effect of his scheme is huge and stretches too far. Three months out of a job is nothing in comparison to some but it was very difficult.

With everything in the economy, gold and platinum at current levels, how can anyone afford any jewelry? Well, yes you can. There are options: Estate and Costume.

Look into buying estate jewelry. Estate is where it’s at. My blogs keep harping about this but it’s simply the best way. Estate is cheaper than buying something brand new. A piece of jewelry isn’t worth going into hock over in this economy.

Ebay or Craig’s List wouldn’t be on my top spots to look  for purchasing because there’s too much to go wrong there. There’s a lot of expertise that an individual would need in order to score a deal. Appraisals and Certificates can be faked. That’s where the experts come in to help you. But that adds to the price of the item and we’re trying to keep the price down for you. Ebay and Craig’s List ARE a great place to check pricing of SIMILAR items. You won’t find exactly the same thing but close is good.

You say you can’t afford the real thing either but want a little bling. Well, go Faux or Costume jewelry. I wear it mixed with my real stuff and everyone thinks, since I am a Graduate Gemologist, everything MUST be real. NOT!!! My choices in costume are fun. If you want to pull the mix off to appear real, your choices must “look like” they’re real.

As I write this article, I have a very large Anne Klein rose gold and white gold tone automatic skeleton watch that I changed out the white rubber band for a black men’s fake croc band from Wal-Mart, a rolled yellow gold bangle from early 1900’s and a pair of Middle-Eastern 22kt gold loop earrings. The watch gets so many ooh’s and ah’s and then I clue the individual in to the fact that they too can go Sam’s and buy one for $29.99 and Wal-Mart for the $7 cheap-o band. That gets some serious eyebrows raised sprinkled in with some strong “Really’s?”. The earrings, though, are real.

Rhinestones NEVER look real. They are fun though and have their place in costume jewelry. It’s great to add a little glitz and bling to your wardrobe. Rhinestones constantly cross my hands…some great and most not so great. The “not so great” can’t usually be refurbished or re-vamped.  When buying estate and antique just make sure to look and see if these items are set in sterling. Sterling can be sold for scrap. Look carefully. Don’t hesitate to snap up sterling at a garage sales either! And, don’t be afraid to bling up your pumps or flats with a big pair of clip earrings from your garage sale adventures.  Check the antique dealers, they sometimes have really great antique and vintage costume or faux pieces of jewelry.

When picking your new faux or paste pieces look for things that really look like the real thing. If it looks worn or the base metal is coming through, you might want to re-think the option and toss it in the garbage. Costume doesn’t need to be perfect but it does need to look good and be in good repair. If it turns a person green where it’s worn, get rid of it and find something new. It’s disposable anyway.

Last thought, if it’s a piece of costume jewelry that you really, really, really like and it’s worn through, out or just can’t go any farther, you can consider having a jeweler re-create the piece as a real piece of  jewelry. I have had quite a few things “knocked off” and made into the real thing from costume. There are limitations though and they’re too lengthy to get into in this blog. Your jeweler will be the best asset for you here, IF, it can be done.

Luckily there are options in this tight economy. Estate can always be a good deal and provide you with good real jewelry buys. Don’t be afraid to experiment with faux jewelry or costume jewelry. This can be a great way to expand your jewelry wardrobe without breaking your piggy-bank. So, faux-ward on!

february-09-041wordpressThe Gold Party is over and I have to let you know it was very successful.  People went home quite surprised by the amount of CASH their gold brought them.  I am going to be planning another one very shortly. 

A great time was had by all.  There was a little wine, a little cheese, some great laughter, a very nice evening, and quite a few ooh’s and ah’s when it came down to weighing the gold and handing out the cash.  It was fascinating to see how much a little pile of 10kt., 14kt., or 18kt. added up to a significant amount of cash. There were some great big smiles on people’s faces. 

You won’t be pressured into selling at my gold party.  In fact, everyone wanted to go home and dig a little deeper in their jewelry boxes.  Unfortunately we were limited on time.  But I am now working with a few people to purchase their precious metals on an individual basis.  This could also work for you, if you prefer a little more privacy about selling your gold. 

What To Bring?
Bring anything and everything that you think that you want to sell, even if you aren’t sure what it is.  Don’t worry if it’s clean or if you’re not sure it’s even gold.  I will test it to be sure.  Bring single earrings, broken jewelry, gold teeth, outdated jewelry that you don’t like, old settings that have the stones out or anything that you can dig out of your jewelry box.   Bring gold, platinum and silver.  You will receive cash for all of it.

I can advise you whether to keep it or not, and tell you what it is if it’s a unique or antique item.  I can also advise you where to go to get your best price if the item is too special to be sold at a gold party for scrap. I’ve taken numerous items “on memorandum” — a type of jeweler’s loan — and sold them for clients to help get the best price because some estate pieces will bring more money than if they were simply melted.  I make a few calls to see where the pricing is in the industry and make an offer to you. 

How are Gold and Other Metals Priced? 
Rates are based on the current precious metals market for that individual day.  As an example: Gold is currently around $950.00 per ounce.  This is for bullion 100% pure gold — or 24 karat.  The gold that you’ll bring in is less than 24 karat.  But remember, your 14 karat herringbone necklace is gold combined with another metal, so the weight of your necklace is not a solid weight in pure gold so you’ll be paid on the actual amount of gold in your necklace. 

What Should You NOT Sell?
Sometimes there are some things you should just keep.  When I see something important that I think you should hold on to and take home with you, I’ll tell you.  I’ll, also, tell you if a piece should go to an auction house such as Christie’s or Sotheby’s or if you have a rare item that would only grow in value for you, for example.  You can then judge whether or not it’s in your interest to sell it.  Good jewelers and gemologists will always advise on whether you should hold on to a piece or if the cash is the better option.

It was a great party and I look forward to more.  Gold’s up!  Why not take advantage?  When’s that last time you went to a party, had fun, drank a little wine and made money????  Never! Dig deep in your jewelry box.  Take advantage of the “stuff” that’s just lying around moldering and make you some CASH!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.